Great Falls and Greater Adventures: Sights of the Potomac

 BY KITTY L. | SHIROOKAMI - DOGS.UNITE | 7.23.2021

Stella taking a break off the Patowmack Trail. | Kitty L. / SHIROOKAMI 

Before we can even catch a glimpse of it, the powerful roar of a 20-foot waterfall fills the air.  The roar crescendos as we approach the overlooks, still hidden from view by trees and rocky structures.  Along with the sound of the falls, the suspense builds, quickening out heart rate as many others before us undoubtedly have experienced.   Alas, we reach one of three breath-taking overlooks and marvel at the raging Potomac, furiously making its way through the gorge.  We have reached Great Falls in Great Falls Park, Virginia.

Dramatic view from the overlook. | Kitty L. / SHIROOKAMI 

This area is quite the popular tourist destination as many locals and nature-lovers from other states flock to witness the Potomack drop a total of 76 feet.  And that drop is as violent as it is beautiful, cascading over a series of rapids and three major falls.  Great Falls, the most famous of the three, is flanked by steep rock formations.  It is only a few steps away from the Great Falls Park Visitor Center, and its overlook is one of the most accessible.  The Middle Falls and Lower Falls, dropping 35 and 15 feet respectively, are downstream Great Falls and can be accessed from several overlooks along visitor-friendly trails.

Chance enjoying the best view of Great Falls. | Kitty L. / SHIROOKAMI 

Another view from the lesser overlook. | Kitty L. / SHIROOKAMI 

The ever-turbulent water activity here exposes some of the oldest rocks in the East Coast.  These rocks, dating back more than 500 million years, were formed by intense heat and pressure in the Earth’s crust, and then from standstones and mudstones.  But the Potomac has been flowing through the gorge for so long – why have these rocks not become smooth, as with other waterfall attractions?  The rocks at Great Falls are metamorphic (gneiss, schist, etc.), which are dense and erosion-resistant, effectively minimizing any geological change imparted by the river flow.  Not only do visitors get a chance to see these prehistoric rocks, but they can also rest assured the views they see today are the same views seen by  indigenous American peoples, European settlers, and George Washington.   What a link to the past.

Scaling the rocks is no easy feat. | Kitty L. / SHIROOKAMI 

Great Falls was also an important hub for the Piscataway and Susquehannock tribes, who were later joined by the Powhattan Confederacy and Iroquois Nation.  As one would expect, the Piscataway were skilled fishers and managed to catch a great number of fish in these fast-moving waters.  The Powhattan were skilled at agriculture, and their land developments surprised early settlers who thought they were exploring uninhabited lands.  Lastly, the Susquehannock facilitated trade with settlers, and the global human activity at Great Falls increased as a result.  It has only been in recent years that one can explore the legacy of these tribes at the park.  Interestingly, the thriving activity that fills Great Falls today may not have been that different from over 400 years ago.

Meeting of the Piscataway Tribe in 1699. | William Woodward

There is even more history to explore and see at Great Falls.  The ruins of the Patowmack Canal, commissioned by George Washington, fostered important trade and commerce in the early United States.  Since boats could not pass or navigate through the violent rapids and precipitous waterfalls, the almost 200-mile long canal system began its construction in 1785.  Barges that flowed easily up and downstream spurred economic growth in the DC area, and opened up trade between the East Coast and the Ohio River Valley. 

Ruins of the Pawtomack Canal. | Kitty L. / SHIROOKAMI 

Though modern modes of transportation rendered the canal obsolete, visitors can still walk alongside and rest alongside it while hiking Patowmack Trail.  The ruins of the canal are actually relaxing to see.  It is impressive to see that the stones still retain their original structure while being overgrown with vines and grass.  In the summer, the trail paralleling the ruins is the coolest area of the park, temperature-wise, and is shaded by several trees.  With its gentle stream of water, several species of butterflies can be seen extracting salt and minerals from the mud alongside the canal ruins.

Stella cooling off in the water as butterflies decorate the ruins. | Kitty L. / SHIROOKAMI  

 Going north down the Patowmack Trail leads you to the Patowmack Canal Overlook.  It’s a completely different flavor from the three major overlooks.  Waters are calm here, and many hikers traverse the rocks to reach isolated islands within the Potomac.  Going further up the trail, beyond this overlook, will allow you to see Conn Island and even the most expensive home in the county from afar.

Calmer waters upstream the commotion. | Kitty L. / SHIROOKAMI 

Perhaps a lesser-known fact about Great Falls is that there used to be an amusement park and two famous carousels in the early 1900’s.  The first, Dentzel, was taken down when Fairfax County acquired park lands.  The second carousel, Stein & Goldstein, was brought to the park by petitions of die-hard visitors.  Although the National Park Service considered removing the attraction but agreed to keep it, high floodwaters from Hurricane Agnes demolished the park.  All that remains in the area now is a signpost marking the water levels.  Perhaps in this case, Mother Nature knows best, as visitors can better  enjoy Great Falls in peace, reflecting on the natural, indigenous, and early American history.

Though discouraged, several visitors still attempt to get closer to the water. | Kitty L. / SHIROOKAMI 

We’ve only briefly explored the Virginia side of Great Falls.  There are many more adventures to be had in the park, and the Maryland side provides even more fantastic views and historical insights.  If you’re planning to visit soon, be prepared! 

The ice cream here is actually top-knotch. | Kitty L. / SHIROOKAMI 

Due to popularity, parking may become difficult in the summer and spots extend well beyond the park.  With so many long trails and the summer heat reflected by the rocks, hydration for you and canine is a priority.  The Visitor Center provides many hydration options for humans and dogs, perfect for refilling bottles.  The difficulty level increases when kayaking the gorge.  Still, family-friendly picnic areas and food options are near the Visitor Center, thankfully making the grand overlooks as easy to enjoy as possible.

Always pack a dog bowl and extra water if you're going to bring your canine pals! | Kitty L. / SHIROOKAMI 

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