Outer Barks: Mini Guide to Fun at Outer Banks with Your Dog
BY KITTY L. | SHIROOKAMI - DOGS.UNITE | 3.30.2021
Sun-drenched beginnings
Rushing to land's end at Outer Banks, Stella and I take dogventuring to the next level at one of our favorite shores of all time. OBX is truly a treasure trove of natural wonders, geographic feats, and history. While there are so many things to do here, this time we ventured during the off season to see if we could finally reach the point where our feet and paws could journey no further.
Fly a Kite at 100ft Dunes
Los médanos. Tallest dunes on the coast. A sleeping colossus of sand that's ever stirring; This is the dune of system of Jockey's Ridge near Nag's Head. A place to run free, and fly.
Stella has taught me that Labs aren't just water-loving dogs, but also sand-loving dogs. Or at least, it's just her expecting the ocean on the other side of those dunes. If you want to roam free and your dog is athletic enough, you can go for a hike here, off the trails and into the unknown. Entering from the Kitty Hawk kite shop, you'll be smack-dab in the middle of the dunes. Of course, for others, there is a convenient nature trail on the other side of the dunes (so we were told).
Be warned. Whatever way you choose to get to the dunes, it can get quite extreme out here. Stay hydrated and prepare yourselves for the heat from the sky and the ground. After a while, though, as you approach the Sound, you'll notice a lot of non-native "avians" in the area! This is no mirage. Jockey's Ridge is probably the best place to fly and view kites throughout the entire OBX, making the trek through the desert worth it.
Get Lost
Untouched shores somewhere between Nag's Head and Rodanthe. Dude, where's the car?
This is an activity we often find ourselves doing: on a whim, we pull over and walk at least six miles in one direction. Here, we eventually encounter flocks of energetic dark birds that knew Stella had no chance of approaching. A dog can only dream! They aren't your ordinary seagulls and sand pipers, but some awesome black cormorants commonly seen in these parts of the Atlantic Flyway. If you want to do the same and see these birds, just prioritize vocal or physical control of your canine, since we are their guests!
There is something cathartic about being in raw nature, completely devoid of umbrellas, chatter, music, and footprints on the sand. Like shadows lengthening throughout the day, the harrow marks on this undisturbed beach trail behind small shells and shell fragments. With time, more high winds pushing back wet sands may create a more permanent rippling. They are a snapshot in what may very well be mother nature's sketchbook, the foundational underdrawings of a masterpiece. Is this what ancient inhabitants, the majestic Croatans, and the early explorers felt when they first encountered this shore?
If you decide to also get lost, please remember where you parked or first crossed the dunes. Everything begins to look the same on the way back, and reception/conventional GPS is difficult to come by so far from anything else! We hadn't seen another soul for hours. Bewildering, yet, refreshing.
Take Your Dog to Mass on the Beach
Enjoying these breathtaking barrier islands? Why not pay respects to The Artist? Jutting out into the ocean, you can still find places of peaceful prayer and contemplation.
There are many great churches like Our Lady of the Seas and Holy Redeemer. However, we so happened to celebrate mass at Holy Trinity by the Sea. Though not so traditional in many ways, they welcomed Stella with open arms.
Mass was filled with reflection, prayer, and gratitude. As calm as the ocean waves directly behind the church, the atmosphere was relaxing and contemplative both indoors and outdoors.
Just steps away from Holy Trinity is the shore that stretches between the church and historical Jennette's Pier. For the beauty of the Earth, as the hymn goes!
Grab a Doughnut at Duck
Duck Donuts at the Duck Boardwalk in Duck.
Okay, of course this was something we were really craving when arriving in Duck. Unfortunately, they were unexpectedly closed that day! There were still plenty of other things to see near the sweet shop.
The Duck Boardwalk faces the sound and offers pleasant sights of the Currituck Sound. Dotting the boardwalk are a collection of shops featuring local arts n' eats as well as fresh open breezes.
The dog-friendly trail makes for an easy-going walk. It reminds me a lot of Neabsco Boardwalk back home. There, you can enjoy the calmness of the sound and shade from towering pines. Best of all, the railings prevent water-addicted dogs from plunging into the depths of the marsh.
Get an Extreme Pedicure at the Beach
The shell-laden shores of Corolla and Currituck can save you a trip to the nail spa.
When people say a beach is a beach, they have obviously never been to these shores. Usually after a storm, several shells wash shore, but not like this. Though it looks rough, the carpet of shells submerged in the clear water provide a smooth walkway to nearby sandbars. No need for booties here.
It's a beachcomber's dream, really. You can find intact coquinas, broken whelks, striped scallops, oysters, clam halves, moon snail pieces, mussels, quahog shards, and beach glass. Often, loads of these treasures gradually accumulate in the little basins behind the sandbars.
Here, you can catch a glimpse of the Currituck Beach Lighthouse. While the rest of the OBX lighthouses are known for their distinct patterns and colors, this lighthouse stands out because it lacks any sort of daymark. Fascinatingly, it is just bare brick. Although, if you're new the banks, you may not notice this as it is the first lighthouse you'd encounter going down Route 12.
Watch the Sunrise at Surfer's Haven
Deep in the heart of Outer Banks is Hatteras Island, the perfect place to watch the sun rise.
If there's anywhere in the world I would see a sunrise on the beach, Hatteras would be among my top choices. There is something about how the shore boldly juts out into the Atlantis that makes you feel surrounded, and you look back knowing the waters of the sound are also behind you. After all, Outer Banks is one of the few places you can see the sun rise and set over the water in the same spot!
I think one of the reasons why I find the sun rise extra-beautiful here is that I have fond memories of the area. One of my closest friends, a true Southern Belle, introduced me to OBX long ago. My first amazing sunrise was here on the shores of Buxton, followed by a bowl of homemade grits that her dad made. Surely, it's more than enough to make anyone fall in love with the South. Good friends, good times, and good memories.
The alignment of the stars and moon, the total eclipse of the sun, the giant meteor hurling towards us thousands of light years away, only to turn into a spec of dust - yeah, a sunrise at Hatteras ranks up there with these celestial events. Even Stella, whose attention-squirrel-disorder gets the best of her, becomes still and watchful as the sun rises here. A blue sky and sea cradle an orange ball of light, climbing ever so slowly over the lapping waves, spilling a radiant mixture of warm colors and hues if only for a moment. The colors begin to quiet down as they wash into the waves and gently arrive at your feet in the seafoam. It's the best.
Sail to an Island of Cats
Reaching land's end, we continued to sail.
When you finally reach land's end at Hatteras Harbor, the adventure doesn't stop there. Legend has it that beyond these waters is an island of cats. To a dog like Stella, that must mean the world's biggest candy shop lies ahead of us. But how in the world can you get there, especially in an unplanned and spontaneous adventure? Where there's a will, there's a way, and that way just so happens to manifest itself as a ferry.
Another perk to being an early bird is you get first dibs on the ferries that shuttle between this legendary isle of cats and Hatteras Harbor. Yes, you can bring your car. More importantly, yes, you can bring your dog! And it doesn't cost a dime - free rides, because this is a free country! Amazingly, this is still part of the scenic Route 12.
During the voyage, you can explore the decks, hang with the crew, watch the birds land on remote sandbars, and share stories with other adventurers. It was here that we met the world-traveler speaking words of wisdom, longing to see his faithful companion once again as the waves and Stella took him back to days gone by. Within two hours, though, you'll reach Ocracoke! We won't spoil it for you.
Find the Lost Colony
Verily, more than four centuries hence, a settlement, teeming with aspirations and dreams, did grace these shores. Yet, as if spirited away, the entirety of the colony doth vanisheth, as if spirited away into the ocean, leaving but two clues: "Croatoan" etched upon the gatepost of a forsaken fortress, and "Cro" inscribed upon a tree's time-worn countenance.
...Or so the historians tell us!
To wrap up our mini guide, we decided to include our adventure on Roanoke Island, which parallels the area of Nag's Head to Bodie on the other side of the sound. What, you thought it was mainland over the sound??
At Manteo, named after the Croatan chief that English colonists eventually befriended, one of the main attractions is the Elizabethan Garden, a lush and beautiful natural timepiece. Though it is a small garden, one can easily spend more than an hour or two admiring the architecture and manicured floral pieces, or watch the endless undulations of the Roanoke Sound at the edge of the gardens.
Do note the royal decree:
Hark, ye good folk! The Elizabethan Gardens doth extend a gracious welcome to those who journey to the Outer Banks, and in this verdant haven, yea, even our four-legged companions are accorded a place of honour! Forsooth, 'tis a pet-friendly excursion that doth embrace the presence of well-mannered hounds, when tethered with leash in tow.
In other words, it's dog friendly and best for the most proper of pooches. Just note - you may need to register in advance if your canine companion has any special issues. It is so important to keep these lush and elaborate gardens fresh, clean, and spotless, and our pawed buddies must know this as well. Good behavior is tantamount.
Speaking of good manners, the first colonists of the Outer Banks area were sent by Queen Elizabeth with the explicit mission "to discover, search, find out, and view such remote heathen and barbarous Lands, Countries, and territories [...] to have, hold, occupy, and enjoy [them].” To what extent this objective impinged upon the rocky relations the colonists had with the original peoples of Roanoke is difficult to measure, yet the colony failed multiple times before mysteriously vanishing.
If you look hard enough, you can find a site where the Lost Colony lives on vicariously. An outdoor theater dedicated to the retelling of the classic tale sits against the backdrop of the Roanoke Sound, and beyond it, the waves crashing into the Outer Banks. However, the queen's dog-friendly decree doesn't extend to this colony, and all pets must remain at home during the nightly performances.
Ending our little Outer Banks journey, we hoped to catch a ride back on a historic ship. Beyond the Manteo waterfront, over a stone bridge adorned with patriotic flags, the Elizabeth II is berthed on a forested islet. Though the sailor couldn't sail us back to the Potomac, he did Stella and me back in time, reenacting tales of the Roanoke voyage.
Dogventure Complete
Thanks for joining us on our first major dogventure! We hope this inspires many of you to take a voyage of your own with your pack.