Pirates of the Potomac: Colonial Beach

 BY KITTY L. | SHIROOKAMI - DOGS.UNITE | 6.23.2021

Slow-motion moonrise over the tides at Colonial Beach. | Kitty L. / SHIROOKAMI 

Come all ye river pirates bold,

Up the Northern Neck of old,

Here be a place so small but free,

A sea of brackish waters be.

 

Colonial Beach is our stronghold now,

The salty breeze we feel in the bough,

O’er the mixture of river and sea,

Gulls cry and take to sky gleefully.

 

In this small town, there’s much to do,

Ye swim with dogs and drink from local brew,

Watch the sunset from the rickety pier,

And chug tropical drinks until the stars appear.

 

But did ye know many battles were fought,

Here on these shores, believe it or not.

Virginia and Maryland pirates of yesterday

Waged wars for oysters, the treasure of the Bay.

 

Come all ye river pirates bold,

Up the Northern Neck of old,

Here be a place so small but free,

Colonial Beach is the place for me.

 

You know when you’re stuck in I-95 standstill-traffic, the kind that everyone around here loves?  Don’t you just wish you could take the next exit and end up in a relaxing beach, far away from the bustle of the DC Metro area? 

 

Well, there is such a place.  And it holds a tale of ancient-booty.  No Bay Bridge jumpers on the way here!  Just around 50 minutes off I-95 near Fredericksburg is the quaint resort town, Colonial Beach.  Often dubbed the Playground of the Potomac, CBVA is well known for its proximity to DC and Richmond.  Don't let its small town feel fool you, though.  Laid-back in the off season, and busy with beach-goers in the summers, Colonial Beach is (surprisingly) the second longest public beach in Virginia, and was voted best Beach in Virginia just a few years ago.

 

What is even more surprising is the hidden history of piracy on these shores.  Somewhere between the first few inches of sand and where the water hits the shore is the geographic border dividing Virginia and Maryland.  It is this border that was the center of the bloody Oyster Wars, the conflict between Chesapeake Bay pirates and authorities during the 1800's.  As the name implies, this war was a battle for the oysters, which have long been dredged and harvested at Colonial Beach since being inhabited by indigenous tribes. 

 

In 1830, the state of Maryland passed laws to make oyster harvesting exclusive to Marylanders, and also banned harmful dredging activities that would disrupt the oysters' habitat.  At the time, these brackish waters had some of the most productive oyster beds and supplied half the entire world's oysters. 

 

However, the excessive harvesting of these culinary treats from nearby oyster beds led to New England watermen to seek the treasures of Chesapeake Bay.  In addition, local Virginian fishermen took advantage of Maryland's lack of enforcement and ignored the dredging ban for almost 50 years. 

 

Thus, New Englanders, Virginians, and Marylanders clashed amongst themselves and local authorities in armed conflict until the Oyster Wars reached its peak.  Swarthy oystermen armed with rake and pistol battled over oyster beds and pirated the catch of rivals.  Alliances were formed as oystermen formed militias and engaged in gun battles at high tide, the optimal time for oyster farming.  Pirates also dredged furiously at night to better outrun police vessels.  

 

It was only at the turn of the century did the wars subsided, following many efforts by the U.S. Navy, state regulators, and locals.  Though today, you would hardly ever think such events transpired here.  The only battles you are likely to see are between those vying for a parking spot, in golf carts rather than ships. 

 

You can also enjoy a safe swimming experience between the jetties and see lone palm trees dotting the shore.  Be warned - though the waters are brackish, jelly fish still lurk around the pier. 

 

When visiting CBVA, High Tides at the Potomac offers the best view of the beach.  Delectable tropical drinks are served here, while live music is performed at their adjacent tiki hut, the Black Pearl.  Perhaps the Black Pearl is an homage to the pirates that brought so much bloodshed and excitement here.  

The pillory at the Black Pearl. | Kitty L. / SHIROOKAMI