Niagara Falls: Natural Wonder or Glorified Waterpark?
View of the American Falls on the Maid of the Mist. | Kitty L. / SHIROOKAMI
While the Canadian forest fires continue to rage on, the air over the area has cleared up substantially. From the Poconos, we thought it proper to finally journey to one of the most talked about waterfalls in the world, Niagara Falls. But is it truly a majestic natural wonder as many claim, or is there more to this famous landmark, caught in the continuous raging flow of water, war, and time? And what of the significance for the small sights and paths along the way? Here’s our experience.
On the way to Niagara Falls
For us, the most direct route to Niagra was also a rather historic route to Niagra Falls. Departing just outside of the valley in the mountains, Wilkes-Barre, we went up Route 6, paralleling the oldest river in the world, the Susquehanna.
Stella in the Susquehanna, enveloped in smoke from the Canadian forest fires. | Kitty L. / SHIROOKAMI
Enroute, we took a break at Wyalusa Rocks Scenic Overlook and enjoyed a spectacular view of the Susquehanna, 500 feet over one of its horseshoe bends. Long ago, repeated trampling by herds of buffalo migrating from the Valley of Virginia carved a trail through treacherous and unforgiving, mountainous terrain. This trail gave way to a network of paths that was eventually used by the Haudenosaunee, the Six Nations of the Iroquois Confederacy, as war paths that allowed them to outmaneuver their enemies. This particular overlook intersects a branch of the war paths, Warriors Path, and was actually a sacred site, referred to as Prayer Rocks. It then served as an important signaling point from which signals could be seen for miles on end. Although today, many visitors have carelessly made marks on the rocks, one can still reflect high above the river alongside numerous eagles that fly over the edge.
The old Susquehanna from the Wyalusa Rocks. | Kitty L. / SHIROOKAMI
As we travelled further north, we were actually going along Sullivan's March. The route highlighted a dark but decisive time determining the fate of our nation. Prior to Revolutionary times, a pact was made between American colonists and natives in the area.
"Brothers: It is necessary, in order for the preservation of friendship between us and brothers of the Six Nations (Iroquois) and their allies, that a free and mutual intercourse be kept between us; therefore we, Brothers: The road is now open for our brethren of the Six Nations and their allies, and they may now pass as safely and freely as the people of the Twelve United Colonies themselves. And we are further determined, by the assistance of God, to keep open and free for the Six Nations and their allies, as long as the earth remains."
The Wyalusa Rocks overlook. | Kitty L. / SHIROOKAMI
However as American colonists were facing pressure from the British, fellow colonists turned Loyalists, and members of four tribes from the Six Nations that sided with the Crown, colonists began to find themselves between a rock and hard place. Two incidents in particular, the Wyoming Valley massacre in Wilkes-Barre (Pennsylvania), and the Cherry Valley massacre in Cherry Valley (New York), enraged colonists and sparked a scorched-earth campaign. Though unfounded, rumors of American women and children being brutally terrorized by Loyalist and native forces led Washington to order four generals to invade the Six Nations and converge upon the British stalwart fortress on the west side, Fort Niagara.
“The Expedition you are appointed to command is to be directed against the hostile tribes of the Six Nations of Indians, with their associates and adherents. The immediate objects are the total destruction and devastation of their settlements, and the capture of as many prisoners of every age and sex as possible. It will be essential to ruin their crops now in the ground and prevent their planting more.
I would recommend, that some post in the center of the Indian Country, should be occupied with all expedition, with a sufficient quantity of provisions whence parties should be detached to lay waste all the settlements around, with instructions to do it in the most effectual manner, that the country may not be merely overrun, but destroyed.
But you will not by any means listen to any overture of peace before the total ruinment of their settlements is effected. Our future security will be in their inability to injure us and in the terror with which the severity of the chastisement they receive will inspire them.”
Desecrated Prayer Rocks. | Kitty L. / SHIROOKAMI
For our part, we passed the Chemung river, the site of a major battle during the expedition, and continued our journey towards the Falls. At last paralleling the Niagara River (which is also referred to as a strait, depending on who you ask), we set up camp/glamp on Grand Island, which is surrounded on all sides by northward-flowing water a few miles before the drop. Unfortunately, due to the unusually hot temperatures this summer, Stella remained in the air-conditioned home base. She’s a Labrador, after all.
Stella at Prayer Rocks. | Kitty L. / SHIROOKAMI
Niagara Falls – the American Side, heck yeah!
Oddly enough, the first thing we recognized in Niagara was the home of the original buffalo wings. That of course is in Buffalo, a few miles back, but there is an Anchor Bar immediately across the Niagara Welcome Center, the place most tourists begin their journey to the falls.
Home of the original buffalo wings. | Kitty L. / SHIROOKAMI
Making our way to the brink, it was hard to tell there was even a waterfall ahead of us. The water flowing through the strait seemed calm enough, and only the faint roar of the falls and a towering pillar of mist resembling smoke hinted at the fate of the incoming water. By the time we made it to the remnants of Prospect Point, right at the top of the American Falls, our ears became accustomed to the sound of water clashing onto the rocks below, and the base of the mist surrounded by Horseshoe Falls slowly came into view.
First sight of the falls. | Kitty L. / SHIROOKAMI
From Prospect Point, we joined the throng of visitors waiting to gain access to the top of the Observation Tower that extends well above the raging gorge. On a sunny and hot summer day, it was easy to notice the drop in temperature created by giant mister we call American Falls. This was more than a sweeping view of the falls. The Observation Tower is so close to the American Falls that you can feel the water crashing downward. The roar of the falls shakes the tower quite a bit, and the wind from the falls is strong enough to steal a couple hats. If you are afraid of heights, definitely do not look down. What a classic feat of our State Parks. Surprisingly, we saw many friendly non-service dogs on the deck – too bad they couldn’t proceed to the next part of the adventure.
Looking down on the Maid of the Mist. | Kitty L. / SHIROOKAMI
We began our descent to the Maid of the Mist, the now all-electric boat that takes you right at the foot of the falls. If there’s only one thing you could do during your visit, this would be it. The tour boat is named after the Lelawala. According to Iroquois legend, the widow sought to end her life by taking a canoe over the falls. As she hurled over the falls, the god of thunder swooped her to safety, behind the falls, and was later inspired to save her people by slaying a ravenous great snake, whose remains shaped the Horseshoe Falls. It’s a pretty interesting namesake compared to the Canadian Hornblower, just across the gorge. All Maid of the Mist cruisers get free blue ponchos that made meme-status during the pandemic.
Approaching the American Falls on the Maid of the Mist. | Kitty L. / SHIROOKAMI
It's difficult to fathom how large the falls were. Even before getting onto the boat, we were nearly swept away by the powerful winds emanating from the American Falls. It was like feeling the breath of a sleeping dragon as you step foot into its lair, for all you fantasy fans out there. At high noon on a clear and sunny summer day, the sight of the tall falls rose well above the many blue hooded passengers, all looking forward and upward. Ponchos furiously flapping against the wind, we slowly sailed past the American and Bridal Veil Falls. Head-on, the water was white as it crashed onto the huge boulders and rock formations at the base of the falls. It was not uncommon to see the flash of rainbows scintillating over the mist. To think that it was only a tenth of the water flowing in Niagara...
Deep into the heart of Horseshoe Falls on Maid of the Mist. | Kitty L. / SHIROOKAMI
Suddenly, it became much darker, as if a thunderstorm was passing through unannounced. Hold onto your phones. The sheer amount of mist created at the base of Horseshoe Falls pelted us, and the water below was a swirl of green and white. Amazing. The good news was that the water didn't taste bad. Forget being at Niagara Falls – this was as close to being in the Falls as one could get! Surrounded on all sides by towering and roaring falls, it was easy to overlook the fact it was a calm sunny day. Looking straight up towards the brink, the water seemed to fall in slow motion, plummeting into the plunge pool, wherein the depths can reach as deep as 100 feet, while parts of the river are as deep as the falls themselves are high (170 ft). Imagine falling into that! It was at this moment that I was quite glad the water-loving Stella held the fort at Grand Island (not that she would be allowed to go on the boat, anyway), since we all know what happened at Old Town. Still, she was with us in spirit.
"I had often seen its broad-blue waters rushing on amidst the dim-dark gloom of its own creation – towards the awful cataract – threatening total distruction to any power interposing a barrier to its onward progress. Its inspiration of beauty – grandness – wonder and terror […0 danced sportively in my soul […]. When I came into its awful presence the power of discription failed me, an irresistible power closed my lips completely, charmed I stood with eyes fixed, all, all absorbed. – Scarcely conscious of my own existence, I felt as I never felt before.”
-Frederick Douglas, impressions of Niagara (1843)
On our way back to land, passing American and Bridal Veil Falls. | Kitty L. / SHIROOKAMI
After doing a couple of panoramic maneuvers on its way back to land, the Maid of the Mist ends its voyage and presents you with the age-old question. Take the elevator or the stairs? This time, you can’t feel guilty for choosing one over the other.
The observation deck at Prospect Point, much safer than the former platform that tumbled to the bottom of the falls! | Kitty L. / SHIROOKAMI
Taking the elevator not only saves your feet and time, but also gives you another opportunity to observe the falls from the sweeping observation platform at a different angle. However, taking the numerous stairs all the way back up allows you to get blasted with more Niagara mist, as if you didn’t get enough on the boat tour. At least the mist keeps you cool. You also get to see Crow’s Nest, which takes you closest to the falls on foot.
They look like ants surrounding Crow's Nest from here. | Kitty L. / SHIROOKAMI
One last look of the falls on the American side. It was quite a trek, but we managed to get to this viewing platform by walking the bridge that crosses over Green and Goat Island, which are surrounded by rapids. Goat Island had a bit of an gimmicky feel to it, with insanely long lines to get into the Cave of the Winds. Instead, we continued to Terrapin Point, where we found the first most obvious and glaring clue that something is strange about these falls. We could have easily ended our tour here, but there was one thing we wanted to check.
Interesting feature on the American side of Horseshoe Falls. | Kitty L. / SHIROOKAMI
The Maid of the Mist powering her way upstream. | Kitty L. / SHIROOKAMI
Niagara Falls – the Canadian Side, eh?
There has often been the debate over which side is “better,” the American or the Canadian side of the falls? We decided to find out. How different could it be there? Crossing over the Rainbow Bridge into Canada, the land of Stella’s ancestors, we experienced perhaps the easiest border crossings in the world.
Crossing over! | Kitty L. / SHIROOKAMI
With the red white and blue behind us, there was an immediate difference in atmosphere. Curated gardens, a boardwalk, European-style roads, artistic fountains, and ziplines overhead – this was definitely a resort town of sorts. While Goat Island seemed a bit touristy, the Canadian side of the Niagara River felt like an amusement park. From what was immediately close to the main landmark, the American side was more of an adventure requiring a lot more exertion while the Canadian side was more of a vista that allowed you to relax.
A whole new world on the Canadian side. | Kitty L. / SHIROOKAMI
The promenade of Queen Victoria Park seemed to emphasize comfort and offered a great a view of the falls, minus the gut-wrenching excitement. It was ideal for small kids, those with accessibility needs, and four-legged tourists. In fact, there seemed to be triple the number of dogs with their families on the Canadian side than on the American side, owing to the ease of access. Just remember, if you want to bring your dog across the border, have proof of rabies vaccination!
Dogs can easily traverse Queen Victoria Park. | Kitty L. / SHIROOKAMI
As we walked towards Horseshoe Falls, there were several additional clues as to what was really going on at Niagara. I did find it annoying that the view of the falls were disrupted by ziplines, but this becomes less of a problem if you keep going towards Table Rock. A quick look over the edge and you’ll see the sturdy roof of a power plant lining the Canadian side of the strait/river.
The old brink near Table Rock. | Kitty L. / SHIROOKAMI
The Hornblower heading into the thick of it. | Kitty L. / SHIROOKAMI
Moving further westward, the roar and calming mist of Horseshoe’s waters heightened in intensity, like a plume of smoke blocking the sun at times. Near the end of the walk is Table Rock, where one can clearly see the remnants of the old brink for Horseshoe Falls. Yes, you heard that right, the old brink. Alas, at the new brink, the water curving from the American rapids over the Canadian border spilled endlessly over the edge with that prominent blue-green hue.
The green waters of Horseshoe Falls. | Kitty L. / SHIROOKAMI
So many questions, so many answers
At the time, there were so many questions I had. Why did I see a strange concrete barrier at Prospect Point? What’s the story behind the power plant down below, which looks abandoned but is in fact still functional while serving as a tourist attraction? Why is there an old brink, jutting out like a pyramid? Since the water from the Great Lakes are so pure and clear, what is making the waters here green? In vain, the grass tries to overcome Niagara’s complicated natural and industrial history.
A view of America from Canada obscured by the end of the ziplines. | Kitty L. / SHIROOKAMI
You see, as mighty a natural wonder as Niagara may seem, it is almost completely tamed. Unlike what we saw at Great Falls, which is virtually the same as it was thousands of years ago, Niagara has become a victim of its own power in many ways. With the fall of the peace-keeping Onguiaahra (Neutral) Nation and subsequent fall of the Iroquois Nation, Niagara’s insane water flow made it an attractive source of hydraulic power as early as 26 years before the birth of our nation. Today, 75% of the water that would have flowed over the falls is diverted into huge tunnels to supply power to nearby areas. These tunnels of course are a major attraction in the area. Even the flow of water over the brink is carefully controlled such that tourists can see just enough water to create an awe-inspiring effect during certain hours of the day, yet not get sprayed by so much mist at uncomfortable levels. This is known as tourist flow. Parts of Prospect Point completely collapsed into the river, only to be restructured to maintain the shape of the falls, while the edge of the brink near Table Rock was actually shifted backwards to ensure the flow was not spread over too much of an area. Like a huge kitchen faucet, Niagara can be partially to completely turned on and off, allowing for preservative and restructuring efforts. The list goes on. All that is missing is a big water heater – don’t get any ideas now!
As disappointing as it may seem, many of the artificial elements at Niagara are saving it from the falls’ own power. Ancient tropical geology characterizes the rocks at Niagara and are an easy target for the fast-moving water flow. With every passing second, the water mercilessly pulverizes the ancient limestone, sandstone, and shale, suspending fine rock flour and salts and exhibiting that mesmerizing green hue. The erosion is so substantial that the crestline at Horsehoefalls is vastly different from what it would have looked like when previous generations used the area as a honeymoon spot. Professor D. Macfarlane and Jason Glatz conducted a good geospatial analysis of the recession here.
Crestline recession of Horseshoe Falls by Marcfarlane and Glatz. | D. Macfarlane & J. Glatz. / Institute of the Environment and Sustainability at Western Michigan University (see full article here)
Were the falls to be undisturbed, Niagara may not have been here at all. Judging by its rate of erosion, it may not be possible to even imagine what the falls would have looked like a few centuries years ago, let alone a millennium ago. Prior to man’s intervention, Niagara Falls receded up to five feet each year, but now it erodes a foot or less per year. One can speculate which falls will transform or disappear, or how many rockfalls will add to the collection of fallen boulders at the bottom of the falls. A glimpse of Niagara’s dry future could perhaps be seen at Niagara Glen, not too far downstream from the falls. Nonetheless, eventually, these falls will with great certainty become rapids and eventually level off into a river if the current erosion, albeit significantly decreased, continues.
Talus holds up the American Falls. | Kitty L. / SHIROOKAMI
Is Niagara Beautiful to You?
However you feel about Niagara Falls, one thing is certain. Niagara Falls has been a source of wonder, beauty, conflict, power, and sustenance throughout the ages. For many generations to come, people will be here for their own reasons. Many will come to check off another item from their bucket list. Still many more will visit, thinking it is a complete natural wonder, oblivious to its artificial underpinnings, which may not even be of great concern to them. A great number of people aware of the interventions will come for prospect, or to anticipate the changes and enjoy the power of engineering. The rare nerdy types will be here driven by geological or political history. Perhaps it can even be seen as a profitable and useful work of art.
Mist emanates from the plunge pool. | Kitty L. / SHIROOKAMI
Whether aware or unaware of its history, it is still an exciting experience. Although we didn’t quite make it to Fort Niagara for a history special, nor did we venture further downstream into the glen of fallen boulders, we decided to top off our sight-seeing here with a bird’s eye view. As we went 775 feet above the Niagara River to view all of the falls from Skylon Tower, I couldn’t help but taking in the whole picture. Those thunderous falls seem so small and quiet from up here, rather subdued. The tour boats taking their slow and predictable routes, and cars steadily crossing the bridge across two countries – it was a little bit like Mr. Roger’s Neighborhood. It put a smile to my face, being in a different country, observing these falls shared by two friendly countries, yet, the view people came to see was embedded within America, the beautiful. Appreciate it for what it is, since it won’t be here forever! Such is life.
A nice view of the falls and the greatest country on Earth. | Kitty L. / SHIROOKAMI