Triune of the Mid-Atlantic Coast: OC, AI, and CI

Some people think all beaches are the same, especially in the same area.  It's just sand, water, and sun, right?  But even in a continuous stretch of shoreline, the difference can be like night and day, with so many different attractions, pet policies, and natural sights.  Here, we go over some of our favorite spots along the coast of the Mid-Atlantic - the world-renowned boardwalk at Ocean City, and the home of wild ponies in Assateague and Chincoteague.

Ocean City

This place needs no introduction, but for those of you who have never heard of this place...  Shame on you! 

All jokes aside, Ocean City is a jewel located on a narrow strip of land separating the Atlantic from the Isle of Wight and Assawoman, meaning it is surrounded by water.  And no, I did not make that last name up!  The city boasts beautiful beaches, a killer boardwalk, and a vast amount of entertainment and businesses.  Millions of visitors, including celebrities, make regular visits to enjoy its boardwalk.  Personally, we go at least twice a year, even for a day trip.  It's worth the trials and tribulations that might happen on the Bay Bridge.

Although peak season is from Memorial Day to Labor Day, you can expect to see crazy crowds on the beach and the Boardwalk even during normal weekends.  That means you should plan accordingly.  It's estimated that OC receives an average of 8 million visitors a year.  

Most of the activity happens along the Boardwalk, probably the best in the world.  The Boardwalk was constructed over a century ago, with its humble origins as a simple wooden promenade for beachfront properties.  It exists and continues to evolve and expand because of the passion and cooperation between local businesses, restaurants, and hotels that face the ocean.

View of the Boardwalk from the Kite Loft.  | Kitty L. / SHIROOKAMI

If you think the activity dies down in the evening, think again.  OC has a great night life, both in the city and along the Boardwalk (though, don't expect lifeguards to be on duty at night).  A particular highlight during the night is the colorful Jolly Roger Amusement Park, which continues its perilous quest to guess my age.  Originally a mini-golf course, it has grown into a veritable amusement park and earned its place on the Ocean City skyline with its iconic Ferris wheel, and it continues to provide new rides and experiences year after year.  Just footsteps away, there are numerous arcades, Ripley's mysterious labyrinth, Thrasher's legendary malt fries (an OC tradition), and Candy Kitchen's famous saltwater taffy.

Even during off-season, plenty of events and festivals draw crowds nationwide all year round.  Some of these include the popular White Marlin Open, Jeep Week, Sunfest Kite Festival, and Springfest.  Personally, we enjoy Jeep Week the most, as Glen and I get to slug-bug/Jeep-beep one another at least 300 times.  The kite festival is also noteworthy, since you can see kites the size of buildings take flight after several hours of catching wind on the beach.

You're probably wondering where all of OC's beachgoers stay.  There are hotels for everybody at Ocean City - couples, big families, and those with pets.   Each hotel is in close proximity to a great eatery, a subject for another day.  The further north you go down Atlantic Avenue, the more expensive the hotels can get.  However, closer to the inlet, we see hotels that are worth the money, as you can view crowds upon crowds of people from your personal balcony.  It's part of the experience, really, and reminds you why this is such a special place.

It is important to note that dogs are only allowed on the Boardwalk during the off season.  As soon as paws hit the board, you're guaranteed to be approached by beach police!  This is all in an effort to keep the Boardwalk, with plenty of foot traffic, clean and safe for so many visitors.  If you do plan to bring your pet during summer, expect to do activities more inland.  If you're looking for more dog-friendly activities by the water, though, we suggest going southward, where Mother Nature welcomes pets in a few more places.

Going southward, things become drastically more peaceful as you approach the inlet and harbor.  More notably, the Life-Saving Station at the end of the Boardwalk honors the maritime history and substantial presence of the US Life-Saving Service, harkening back to the days when Ocean City was but a tiny fishing village with extreme sand shifts and winds.  It is also from here you can view the next destination, Assateague Island.

Assateague

Just on the other side of the inlet is quite a different atmosphere.  Assateague Island is a barrier island that was formed by the constant shifting of sands and stormy winds.  In fact, a hurricane smashed into the barrier islands, creating the permanent inlet that separates Ocean City and Assateague today.  As such, Assateague is detached from the mainland and accessible by bridge, the construction of which ended ferries to the island.  

Campers, rejoice.  On this side of the inlet is one of the most coveted campgrounds in the US.  If you're lucky, it will take a little more than a year to land a spot at the campgrounds.  But let me tell you, it is worth it.  The rest of Assateague allows no campers, and camping is prohibited on the Virginia side.  Even the presence of pets are not allowed on the Virginia side.  Near the shore, there will be good days, blue skies and calm waters.  But there will most certainly be reason to prepare, as the conditions can quickly become harsh, the winds will be brutal, and the nearest cities (Ocean City and Berlin) are quite a drive away.

Unlike nearby Ocean City, Assateague and its campgrounds provide a calming,  almost isolated experience.  You can ride a bike deeper into the park, fish or relax at Sinepuxent Bay, or simply enjoy the beach without large crowds or tramplings.  The area is so remote that you can see galaxies at night.  From the bridge over the bay, you can clearly see Ocean City in the distance, ablaze with lights of the Boardwalk.  However, it's good to know that there will be limited Wi-Fi and a lack of electrical hook-ups for glampers.  Despite this, there are plenty of clean bath houses that provide charging.  The Visitor Center and library is just a bike or scooter ride away, so one can still be productive online during open hours.

Of course, no story about Assateague would be complete without feral ponies, known as Chincoteague ponies or Assateague horses.   The Maryland herd frequently roams the campgrounds.  They may seem small and cute, but they are known to be quite aggressive and curious.  Visitors will often experience encounters with the ponies, so securing food and pets are important for safety.  These ponies have no problems charging at dogs who are curious enough to approach them, even if it is the standard Labrador greeting.  We actually witnessed an tent invasion by the horses, who found plenty of food in the campsite.  However, unlike deer and other common backyard creatures, feeding these wild ponies is ill-advised and in fact detrimental to their health.

These are no ordinary ponies.  The Assateague and Chincoteague ponies have developed special adaptations that allow them to thrive in conditions that would otherwise easily kill them.  They are able to drink salt water and have specialized kidneys to deal with the excess salt, resulting in their bloated appearance.  Whatever freshwater requirements they need are met through the moisture of vegetation.  Their study hooves are hardened and widened, allowing them to traverse dunes and marshes.  A thick winter coat develops during winter to deal with harsh cold winds, and is shed during the hot summer, a way for the ponies to deal with the temperature extremes. 

If done properly, enjoying a trip to the beach here with your dog is worth the wait and every precaution.  Here, you're more likely to see other dogs at the beach who are well-behaved and love the water.  Especially at the shore, there are plenty of waves to catch and opportunities to plunge into the salty water.  The campsite is located just on the other side of the dunes, which are quite steep.  Since they act as a natural barrier, it is easy to keep dogs close to your campsite and out of the ponies' way.

Chincoteague

If you go even further south, you'll end up in Virginia.  As most of us know, that is an exotic location in more ways than one.  But of course, Chincoteague Island is a major attraction here.  You'll have to drive around for about an hour to get to Chincoteague, however, because there is no direct access through Assateague along the shore.  The area between the two islands is a carefully guarded and preserved.

 

While Assateague is a National Seashore, Chincoteague is a National Wildlife Preserve and Refuge.  As there is no camping on the Virginia side of Assateague, there are some small camping spots in Chincoteague.  There are small accommodations by the water as well as a few quirky, local seafood restaurants serving the day's fresh catch.  However, in the little time that I spent here, I felt the area is best enjoyed as a nature escape.

 

It feels quite small here, truly on an island.  But, you get to enjoy easier access to the ponies in their natural habitat, rather than seeing them in campgrounds or being surrounded by tourists eager to get selfies with them.  In fact, you can kayak in the marsh to get a better picture of them in large bands.  A great place to launch is near the centuries-old Assateague Lighthouse, which used to be Assateague's southernmost point until new land developed from shifting sediment.  Unlike the ponies I encountered at Assateague, I found the Virginia herd to be quite friendly and calm, probably because they not disturbed.  

The Chincoteague ponies are the OG feral ponies of the area.  Legend has it that a Spanish ship wrecked off the coast of Virginia, and the strongest ponies swam to Chincoteague.  This story was recounted in the popular book, Misty of Chincoteague.  Yet recently, it has been discovered that the closest living relative of domesticated horses is in fact the Chincoteague pony, which are descended from Spanish horses and have been genetically linked to the archaeological remains of Spanish horses in Puerto Real.  From the coast of Virginia, the herd expanded, adapted, and spread northward, making Assateague and Chincoteague famous.

Overall, I would say this is a great visit for those who want to get as far away from people and as close to ponies as possible, but without having to trek deep into Assateague territory.  If you like to boat, fish, or kayak, this is a great choice.  However, because of the goal of the Refuge, dogs are not permitted on the island at all, neither in Assateague that crosses the Virginia border, nor Chincoteague.  Even if your dog is in a car, you will be asked to leave!  So, dogventurers, be aware of this and keep the pooches on the Maryland side if you decide to go.