Nature Paved Paradise and Put up a Parking Lot: Concrete Beach at Hilton Head

 

 

On our way back to Tybee Island, we made a brief stop at nearby Hilton Head Island, a destination renowned for its golf enthusiasts and Buckeyes (Ohioans).  As Hilton Head is a place we plan to revisit extensively soon, we wanted to do at least one thing that captures the heart of the island.  With so much to do, especially at Sea Pines, it was difficult to decide what to see first.  When in doubt, head for the sea!

One of the major Sea Islands, HHI was once a thriving collection of lucrative plantations.  After the island was captured by the Union during the Civil War, tens of thousands of individuals forced to work on the plantations were now free.  They established the first self-governing village of freedman in the United States. 

  Entering Hilton Head Island. | Kitty L. / SHIROOKAMI

Fast forward about 100 years, and the island experienced another dramatic upheaval, becoming a unique cultural bubble in the South.  Despite being in Low Country, Southern accents do not prevail here as an influx of non-Southerners shape the island’s culture as much as the tides shape the island’s coastline.  Today, Hilton Head, which was developed and heavily marketed as a resort town for landlocked Americans, strives to be both an upscale destination while preserving its natural wonders.  In fact, it has been marketed so much to residents of Ohio that today’s pamphlets emphasize how directly south of Cleveland the island really is, making it ideal for Buckeyes who would rather not venture too far into enemy turf to reach the shore! 

Indeed, HHI’s modern history captures the lyrics of that old song, where “they paved paradise and put up a parking lot,” except paradise paved itself in a surprising fashion. 

  Towering pines and palms of HHI. | Kitty L. / SHIROOKAMI

The once agricultural plantations are now gated communities that grow year after year with rotations of snowbirds and tourists.  We stopped at Coligny Beach, which is open to everyone who comes to the island.  This includes dogs, which is a big deal considering nearby turtle shores are dog-restrictive.  The beach is so peaceful and unassuming that it lies almost as hidden as a backdrop to a collection of quaint shopping centers and trails, which are also dog-friendly.  Instead of a suspenseful commercial buildup reaching the shore, you can find surprisingly affordable, high-quality eats that draw their main ingredients directly from the ocean.  The beach is simply there, quiet and humble as the rest of its surroundings, which are inhabited by slow-motion walkers and uncommon, large birds that come to sunbathe.

 Anhinga sunbathing in Coligny Plaza. | Kitty L. / SHIROOKAMI

 Delicious scallop-loaded seafood crepe from Skillet's at Coligny Plaza. | Kitty L. / SHIROOKAMI

Lined with pink muhly this time of year, the boardwalk leading to the oceanfront is sleepy.  So much so that one could actually fall asleep here.  Porch swings under gazebos sway in the gentle breeze while visitors blast the sand from their feet at the central fountain, which of course is shut off in the face of high winds.  There is plenty of room to socialize and contemplate life under the shade of oak trees and palmettos. 

  Hairawn muhly blooms line the Coligny boardwalk. | Kitty L. / SHIROOKAMI

  Stella enjoying the shade of oaks in Coligny Park. | Kitty L. / SHIROOKAMI

Once you reach the beach, you’ll notice how flat and wide it is.  The waters seem a bit murky, with a visibility of less than a foot under the surface.   The sand is soft only for a few steps off the beach access mat, leading to an unusually hard-packed sand with undertones of gray.  At first glance, it seems a far cry from the untamed and remote shores of other barrier islands, and it lacks the energy of many vibrant oceanfront cities.  But do not be fooled!  Its natural eccentricities and beauty are set nearly in stone – or are they set in sand?

  Beach-goers on the flat oceanfront of Coligny. | Kitty L. / SHIROOKAMI

 Abandoned beach chairs overlooking ships headed towards Savannah. | Kitty L. / SHIROOKAMI

For where else in the country can you ride a bike for miles while the ocean stretches as gentle waves beneath your tires?  HHI’s unique, super-packed sand makes this possible.  It almost feels like concrete!  During low tide, the beach becomes a 12-mile biking path which connects to other inland paths and trails.  It feels almost as if the ocean laps over a parking lot constructed by Mother Nature herself.  Even the freshly wet sand left behind by a receding wave is sturdy enough to resist the tread of a bike.

  

  A couple biking in the compacted sand of HHI. | Kitty L. / SHIROOKAMI

Unlike the tan and white sands you see on other beaches, the sand here is mostly fine-grained and shell-based.  As the area is part of the South Atlantic Bight, the beach is actually a lot closer to sea level than you’d think, and the shallow sea floor extends well beyond the shoreline.  Think of the difference between how the water clashes against a steep boat ramp versus how it laps over a shallow ramp, travelling longer distances.  That means the incoming waves are slower and able to grind shells and other particles into a concrete-like finish.  Furthermore, the beaches are often re-nourished by the nearby Barrett and Joiner Shaols, which have recently been accumulating fine material such as silt, clay, and organic matter, characteristic of nearby estuaries.

  Borrow and Reference Areas for Dredging and Renourishment off of HHI. | Bergquist et al. / Marine Resources Research Institute

It is for these reasons that the dunes are small if not non-existent.  It is also for these reasons that seashells are noticeably absent, and you’ll be more likely to find something lying on the surface that makes you ask, “What is that???”  Spartina clumps, crystalline shrimp waste, jelly fish, and pulsating sea porks are common sights.  Tread carefully, especially with a curious pup.  However, you’re less likely to encounter such interesting finds while whizzing over the sand on a bike. 

  Bikes against a backdrop of small dunes and properties at Coligny. | Kitty L. / SHIROOKAMI

 Crab and shrimp burrows in the hard sand. | Kitty L. / SHIROOKAMI

The unique interaction between low energy waves and a shallow beach creates a dazzling spectacle when the light is just right.  At times, the shore looks like a silver mirror, reflecting a clear blue sky and obscure ocean.

 Mirror-like beach at Coligny. | Kitty L. / SHIROOKAMI

 Exposed at low tide, a runnel carved into the sand. | Kitty L. / SHIROOKAMI

These reflections are enhanced by the crystal clear water trapped in the extensive runnels that are exposed at low tide.  Don’t be afraid to go through these small streams.  Despite their muddy gray appearance, even the wave-like patterns at the bottom of the runnels are solid and call for a bumpy ride.  The water in the runnels is so clear that you can the sand bed directly, making it difficult to tell which ripples are dry and which are submerged.  If you’re feeling adventurous, you can even BMX it over deep canals and their grooves that have been slowly carved by the sea.

  Our shadows in the runnels. | Kitty L. / SHIROOKAMI

During high tide, the story is quite different.  The beach significantly shrinks in size, and the deep and reflective runnels disappear.   You can still brave the sea and enjoy a more thrilling bike ride as roaring waves flank you.  The gusty winds give beachgoers even more of a reason to simply sit, relax, or sleep.  During times like these, it's important to remember Coligny Beach generously offers access Sea Pines for those willing to go the extra mile.  Not much of an issue when you're using an electric bike!

  High tide at Coligny Beach. | Kitty L. / SHIROOKAMI

There’s something I like about Coligny Beach.  It stands in stark contrast to other elements of the island in general, which are always touted as posh and upscale.  Of the endless amounts of beach-goers, there is a good number that compare and elevate it over nearby beaches in the region, like Myrtle Beach or Tybee Island, often at the expense of the other oceanfronts and their visitors.  As much as some try to reign it in with the exclusivity of the plantations, the beach itself doesn’t boast or brag.  It is simple, plain, and humble, almost in defiance of everyone’s expectations.  Just wonderful.  Mother Nature gave the perfect opportunity for all two-legged and four-legged souls to enjoy an expansive beach and just… roll with it.  Quite literally, too.  And that, is something with which even a dog can most definitely agree.

 Stella at Coligny Beach. | Kitty L. / SHIROOKAMI